Bird's eye view of horror: MC3 Tidd hitching a ride in a Sea Hawk helicopter. |
Below photos, unless otherwise noted, are by
MARCH 15, 2011
Damn, it’s
cold, I thought to myself.
Petty Officer 2nd
Class Christopher Carringer had hauled open the heavy side door of
our HH-60H Sea Hawk helicopter as we banked alongside the Japanese
waterfront for our first look at the tsunami-ravaged Honshu coast.
The icy rush of air came as a shock—the first of many.
I, like everyone in the helo, was wearing a “dry suit,” a watertight twist on the traditional wetsuit and vitally essential for survival in extremely cold waters. Hammering that point home was a note on the whiteboard in Helicopter Anti-Submarine Squadron (HS) 4’s ready room aboard the aircraft carrier USS Ronald Reagan. It read:
Water Temp:
39
degrees (F)
45 minutes with dry suit
5 minutes otherwise
Fresh snow lined
the hillsides of what I was told was the Miyagi Prefecture as we
continued up the coast. The small but steep mountain cliffs jutting
severely from the ocean briefly reminded me of San Francisco, my
hometown, but I shook that thought away as I took in the landscape. Cruising
at a touch over 100 miles per hour about 500 feet off the ocean, the
rural countryside would have been beautiful in most any other
circumstance. Marring the pristine waterline were all manner of
debris—buoys, fishing nets, floating sections of dock that had
broken away.
Small capsized boats broke the surface here and there,
but the land was otherwise devoid of human life.
Our helicopter was
among the first on scene after the 9.0-magnitude earthquake and
subsequent tsunami struck northern Japan March 11, 2011. I had been
at dinner in one of Ronald Reagan’s galleys when CNN broke the news
of the disaster. As more and more of my fellow sailors took notice of
the broadcast, silence fell over the room. We were transiting the
Pacific on our way to an exercise with the South Korean military,
about halfway between Hawaii and our first port-of-call of our 2011
deployment—Busan, Republic of Korea.
As I watched the murky water
wipe away the lives of so many Japanese citizens, I knew right away
our plans had just changed.
Four days later I
was strapped into the gunner’s belt of one of the legendary Black
Knights of HS-4’s venerable Sea Hawk helicopters, in the company of
one of their most experienced air crews.
But I wasn’t one of them.
I was a photojournalist from Ronald Reagan’s Graphics Media
department, picked for this assignment because of my swimming
qualifications and proven ability on the flight deck of our floating
airport. The
previous day, our photo and video guys had been crossed off the
flight manifest at the last minute when HS-4’s executive officer
rightfully proclaimed that potentially-rescued victims took
precedence over us.
It only took one day to realize they wouldn’t be finding any survivors in those waters. Now soaring at triple-digit speeds in the freezing cold, I had one thought going through my head:
It only took one day to realize they wouldn’t be finding any survivors in those waters. Now soaring at triple-digit speeds in the freezing cold, I had one thought going through my head:
First
these people endure one of the strongest earthquakes in recorded
history. The earthquake generates a wall of water 30 feet high in
some places that absolutely ravages their coastal towns. All that
water sparks the failure of a nuclear powerplant, releasing untold
radiation into the atmosphere.
And now it’s f*cking snowing.
I was flying a
reconnaissance mission with HS-4 one day prior—my first flight with
the Black Knights—when chatter picked up over the radio. We were
canvassing a designated area for survivors but finding only empty
fishing boats, large islands of debris and the occasional drifting
house when the pilots of my helo and several others in the area
began a distressed conversation I couldn’t fully understand.
The
Sea Hawk banked abruptly as we headed for home. Over our Sea Hawk’s
circuit, I asked one of the aircrewmen what had happened.
Evidently,
he replied, we had flown through a “radiation cloud” and had to
return to the ship immediately.
Once
back on the flight deck, we were directed toward one of the ship’s
Chemical, Biological and Radiological (CBR) stations. As we
disembarked, a team from the ship’s Reactor department (Ronald
Reagan is a nuclear-powered aircraft carrier) immediately descended
on the Sea Hawk.
Counter-measure washdown on the flight deck. |
Inside
the CBR station, another Reactor team similarly descended on us. We
each were given a thorough scan with a Gieger meter, seeking out
hotspots to determine if we could expect a lymphoma-filled future. My
flight suit, dry suit and boots were all confiscated and whisked off
to God-knows-where but, thankfully, I was given a clean bill of
health.
Now,
just one day later, we were cleared to resume our humanitarian
mission—albeit with a stiff warning not to stray within 100
nautical miles of the damaged nuclear plant. I was tasked with two
roles: collecting intelligence data on potential landing zones and
providing media coverage of whatever went on. I shivered through all
those layers while tightly grasping my Nikon as we descended down the
mountainside toward what was left of a civilization.
I
checked and rechecked my gear, making sure I had good batteries and
extra memory cards at the ready. I had received all of three weeks
training in still photography at the Defense Information School in
Fort Meade, Md., several years ago. While DINFOS instructors do their
best to instill in their students how to react to uncontrolled
action, my real lessons had come from shooting F/A-18 Super Hornets
launching off the flight deck at over 200 miles per hour. But the
fact of the matter was simple—there’s no way to prepare for a
disaster of this magnitude other than through sheer experience.
At
24 years old, I don’t know that I was fully prepared for what I
would see. The devastation was near total in the lowlands, with
mountains of wreckage where houses once stood—houses a lot like the
one I grew up in—surrounded by countless overturned automobiles.
Scattered, larger buildings still standing were the rare exception,
and even they wouldn’t be habitable again for a long time.
Just
as impressive were the boats and ships littering the landscape,
washed ashore by the wall of water. My Nikon’s shutter slammed open
and closed as fast as my numb hands could fire the trigger, capturing
the strangely surreal sight of a thousand-person ferry boat resting
atop a three-story building as though God himself had placed it
there. Or a large crab boat, balancing precariously on a concrete
jetty some 20 feet off the water. The unnatural new homes for these
vessels stood in stark contrast to the horror surrounding them.
The Sea Hawk shuddered as it air braked suddenly and pulled into a sharp turn. As we came around, I spotted why we had slowed to a hover.
Scrawled into the solid rock of a hillside
were the letters “S.O.S.”
The aircrewmen searched the airspace for tree limbs and power lines,
known affectionately to helicopter crews as “widowmakers,” before
shouting the all clear on both sides. We descended toward a small
clearing a hundred feet from the rock that would have to do as a
makeshift landing zone.
Carringer
and Petty Officer 3rd Matt Thomas, the other HS-4 rescue
swimmer assigned to this flight, hopped out of the helo first as I
followed close behind. No sooner had we cleared the rotor blades
chopping over our heads than a light flatbed truck came chugging into
the clearing. It came to a halt and two Japanese men and a young boy
climbed out of the cab.
Carringer
and Thomas approached the three and greeted them in English, but they
just shook their heads. Carringer produced a green, laminated
notecard with several phrases printed in Japanese and English. Using
the card as their guide, the aircrewmen checked off the various needs
of this location—food, water, a first-aid kit and other essentials.
Providing aid to a disaster of this magnitude was an enormous task. As of yet, USS Ronald Reagan and its air wing were the only real resources on scene. After a few days in the area, C-2A Greyhound cargo planes would constantly be coming and going from the aircraft carrier, packed to the gills with vital supplies for the relief effort. But when we first arrived, we only could give what we already had with us. Our Sea Hawk was loaded with cases of bottled water and packaged food, which we gladly handed over to the Japanese. But, surprisingly, they didn’t want all of it.
Using the translator card. (U.S. Navy photo by Mass Communication Specialist 3rd Class Dylan McCord/Released) |
Providing aid to a disaster of this magnitude was an enormous task. As of yet, USS Ronald Reagan and its air wing were the only real resources on scene. After a few days in the area, C-2A Greyhound cargo planes would constantly be coming and going from the aircraft carrier, packed to the gills with vital supplies for the relief effort. But when we first arrived, we only could give what we already had with us. Our Sea Hawk was loaded with cases of bottled water and packaged food, which we gladly handed over to the Japanese. But, surprisingly, they didn’t want all of it.
One of the greatest impressions I would take
away from Operation Tomodachi would be the Japanese’s steadfast
dedication to taking no more than they felt they might need.
As
the Sea Hawk’s rotors began churning up more and more dust, the
aircrewmen jotted down the landing zone’s desired supplies for
future missions, then informed me it was time to leave. As I followed
Carringer and Thomas back into the helo, I caught one last glimpse of
the Japanese citizens beside their truck.
All three were bowing as we
lifted off the deck.
Two
more days of rescue operations had gone by when I received the call
to fly again. This time I’d share a helo with Petty Officer 3rd
Class Seth Eslin and Petty Officer 2nd Class Zach
Delcorte, using cases of bottled water, boxes of warm clothes and
wool blankets for seats in the crowded cabin.
A
lot had changed by the third day of Tomodachi. The Black Knights were
joined by several helicopter squadrons based off the amphibious
command ship USS Blueridge (LCC 19) for delivery runs. F/A-18F Super
Hornets from Ronald Reagan were flying low-altitude recon missions,
proving constant updates as the situation developed. Coordinating it
all was a squadron of E-2C Hawkeyes, the aircraft famous for the
24-foot diameter roto-dome attached to its fuselage, using their
high-tech equipment to manage the battlespace by sending precise
flights of supplies exactly where they were needed most.
Although
the Ronald Reagan Strike Group now had a much better understanding of
how to manage the humanitarian effort, circumstances on the ground
were growing worse.
Overturned cars and rubble had effectively
rendered many roads impassable to some of the most critical
locations, making air support vital to the survival of the refugee
centers.
Now
one of many helos scouring the Miyagi Prefecture, our mission sounded
simple on paper: fly to an assigned LZ, give them what they need,
return to Ronald Reagan and do it again.
In
reality, however, we had more freedom to act on the fly. That
fluidity came into play during our second supply run, when word came
from one of the Hawkeyes that a new LZ had been found not far from
our current location. Our Sea Hawk banked hard to the right as we set
a new course.
Eslin
and Delcorte kept a keen eye on the surrounding terrain as we slowly
made our way through a narrow valley. Light snow was falling and
visibility was unfailingly minimal, as it would be throughout
Tomodachi. Occasionally, the guys would spot an infamous widowmaker,
sending the helo lurching in one direction or another as they called
out the warning. I tried my best to stay out of their way while
keeping an eye on my camera gear.
The
valley opened up into a large clearing that was strangely divided by
a railroad embankment. On the far side was our target LZ; an
elementary school set on a hill. The other side, well, the other side
was completely f*cked for a solid mile from the ocean to the
embankment, which apparently had been enough to stop the flood.
We
came to a soft a landing in the mud of a soccer field outside the
school. Delcorte and Eslin had to rush out of the Sea Hawk as a crowd
of children and adults came pouring out of the gymnasium, warning
them not to come within the rotor wash. Obediently, the Japanese
waited just beyond the reach of the blades as Delcore and Eslin
started unloading the helo.
Near
as we could tell, our supply run
couldn’t have come a moment too
soon.
The elementary school lay at the foot of the mountainside and
opened up toward the railroad embankment. There was absolutely no way
in or out by land, meaning this shelter needed everything we had with
us.
As
Delcorte continued unloading supplies, I followed Eslin toward the
school. We were greeted by what I can only guess was a family, an
adult male and female and two small children. They spoke broken
English, meaning the green notecard would be worth its weight in gold
once more.
While
Eslin worked with the family on their shelter’s needs, I timidly
ventured inside the gymnasium.
I felt like an intruder, but I also
realized that this might be the only photos from inside a shelter.
The somber eyes of displaced Japanese citizens met mine as I removed
my flight helmet and stepped onto the hardwood floor in my muddy
boots. I tried not to let my nervousness show in my smile as I bowed
to the victims of the terrible tragedy I had witnessed only from high
in the air.
Once
again I was impressed by the Japanese’s way of handling the
situation that had been thrust upon them. Gathered inside the
gymnasium around propane heaters were their children and elderly,
while every able-bodied man and women helped move and organize the
supplies from our helo. Mattresses and blankets covered most of the
floor, alongside the few personal possessions they had managed to
save. Though somber, their eyes showed realization and appreciation
as some returned my bow, while still others shook my hand as I meekly
made my way around the room.
After
snapping a few photos, I walked outside toward the Sea Hawk. Eslin
and Delcorte were unloading the last of the supplies for the locals
as I walked past the Sea Hawk. Our exit was fast approaching, but
morbid curiosity got the best of me as I walked through the mud
toward the railroad embankment. I spotted the road that passed
beneath a trestle bridge and headed for a close-up look at what lay
on the other side.
It
was exactly as we had thought, but that didn’t make it any easier
to witness. I stepped through the wreckage, surrounded by literal
mountains of demolished businesses, cars buried beneath rubble and
houses collapsed upon themselves. I felt the pain of these people in
knowing their neighborhood could just have easily been mine in
another world.
At
once, Eslin appeared behind me, gesturing emphatically that it was
time to go. Several children stopped us on the way back to the Sea
Hawk to take a picture with them in front of the helo. These kids
were managing to find some fun in life despite the horror that had
washed over their world. I don’t know that I had ever been so
humbled in all my life. I was moved by the incredible display of
human perseverance and resolve I had born witness to, both inside the
gymnasium-turned-shelter and beyond the wall of the embankment.
I would fly five missions over the course of USS Ronald Reagan’s involvement with Operation Tomodachi and see many more incredible acts of endurance. The plight of these people was unimaginable, but their resilience was humanity at its finest.
---MC3 Alexander Tidd
Thank you for sharing this personal story with us. And thank you to all the Sailors that put themselves in harm's way to reach out to the Japanese.
By the way, Tomodachi means friend.
This is a great story from MC Tidd. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteThe Tsunami was 30 meters (up to 40m), not 30 feet.
ReplyDeletehttps://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/2011_T%C5%8Dhoku_earthquake_and_tsunami
Thanks for making me relive those days.
ReplyDelete